 Fresh Shell Bean Gratin
Anthony Boutard is a bean fanatic. He inspired me
to grow fresh shelling beans by providing the seed
from some of his favorite varieties.
Eaten in the fresh stage, shelling beans are one of
the real pleasures of summer. Most people shy away
from them because of the extra work of shelling, but,
at this stage, they are melt-in-your-mouth wonderful,
a completely different experience than eating the same
varieties dried. If you can, seek out someone growing
a range of European and American shelling beans, and
experiment with different types.
This recipe was adapted from Chez Panisse Vegetables,
by Alice Waters, and it's a real crowd pleaser. This
one is made with sage, but you can also use marjoram,
oregano, basil, or rosemary (sparingly). This version
doesn't call for any spice, but try adding a good pinch
of hot pepper, or get out the preserved peppers and
pass them at the table.
2 1/2 to 3 pounds fresh shell beans (about 3 cups
shelled)
6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt to taste
1 small onion, cut into 1/4-inch
dice
4 cloves garlic, finely chopped
2 fresh sage leaves, chopped
2 medium tomatoes, peeled,
seeded, and roughly chopped
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
Serves 4 to 6
Shell the beans and discard any discolored or shriveled
beans. You should end up with about 3 cups shelled
beans. (The yield will vary depending on the variety.)
Rinse the beans in cold water and put them in a medium
saucepan with water to cover by about 1 inch. Bring
the water to a boil, skimming off any foam that floats
to the surface, and add 2 tablespoons of the olive
oil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer the beans, stirring
occasionally, until tender, 15 to 30 minutes, depending
on the variety and maturity. If the beans start to
peek through the liquid during the cooking process,
add a splash more water. Remove from the heat and season
the bean liquid with salt-the beans will absorb the
salt gradually. Set the beans aside to cool slowly
in the cooking liquid.
Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Warm
a medium sauté pan over medium heat and add
2 tablespoons of the olive oil and the onion. Season
with salt and cook until the onion is tender, about
6 minutes. Add the garlic and sage and sauté just
until the garlic is fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the
tomatoes, season again with salt, and cook for 1 to
2 more minutes, until the tomatoes are softened.
Drain the cooled beans, reserving the liquid. Combine
the beans in a gratin dish with the onion and tomato
mixture and stir to combine. Add enough of the bean-cooking
water to almost cover. Taste and adjust the seasoning
with salt, if necessary. Combine the bread crumbs with
the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle them
over the beans in an even layer. Bake until the juices
are bubbling at the edges and the bread crumbs are evenly
browned, about 45 minutes. Serve warm.
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